Unfortunately we could not meet in March as planned due to a COVID outbreak at our normal meeting place, but our members had kept busy turning and below are some of the items we likely would have seen at the show & tell time. Enjoy the craftsmanship and hopefully it sparks some new ideas for you as well.
Tony Omeis – Tapered stave vasesTony Omeis – Turnings from solid blocksTony Omeis – An assortment of finials from solid block designBrian Hummel – Spalted Maple BowlsLinda Vance – Holders for the Ukrainian eggs she has made for this season
Richard Garland – Small bowl from Reg’s magnolia tree
Richard Garland – Bottom of small bowl from Reg’s magnolia tree
Richard Garland – 11″ Walnut bowl wet with mineral oilRichard Garland – Spalted Maple vase
Paul Demmert – Small spalted curly maple bowl, once turned, ready for sanding and finish
Paul Demmert – Same small bowl is 6.5H x 9.25D x 0.25 wall thickness
Paul Demmert – Larger spalted curly maple bowl, once turned, ready for sanding and finish
Paul Demmert – Same small bowl is 6.5H x 9.25D x 0.25 wall thickness
Jim Hopkins – Spalted Oak, cracks filled
Jim Hopkins – Spalted Oak, crotch grain is crazy
Jim Hopkins – small spalted oak bowl.
Jim Hopkins – cracks filled with coffee and CA glue
Stephen Tuttle not only sent a picture of what he’s been working on, he also explained how it was done, the plan and tools he used and how to get your own. We nearly got a virtual demonstration for this one.
These two items worked very well to create tight joints in the rings. Rings are glued up using hose clamps that can be gotten at any hardware store.
Once all the rings are made they are glued in a stack. I did this incrementally – the bottom half of bowl section was done first and notched to receive top half. The throat was a little different as the sections are staves and not cut with the sled. This was turned separately and glued to the completed bowl section.
This technique is definitely not for everyone as it is more figurin’, calculatin’, cuttin’ and gluin’ than turning. If I do more of it I think I will keep it simple. I don’t think a 10,000 piece masterwork you see online is in my future. It does have positives in that it can be done with many of the scraps that accumulate in a shop. There are no drying issues. There isn’t any end grain exposed in the circumference of the turning. You can make a large bowl with more manageable pieces of wood.
I know I have seen this shape before, but where?…
Perhaps our next president’s challenge should be making Genie bottles. Now you have all you need to make your own.
We had officer elections, showed off spheres we learned how to make last month, collected wands for Camp Korey, and watched Tony Omeis walk through all the steps needed to design, construct and turn a segmented vessels.
Spheres and wands were everywhereKen brought in a sampling of items from the new club storeDon’s presentation last month inspired many to try their hand at making a sphereThe full selection of wands collected for Camp Korey – Nice work, the kids will love these!The vessels we learned how to make
The recorded meeting including Tony’s presentation
This month’s meeting featured an interactive remote demonstration (IRD) by Don Wilson showing us how to turn a sphere, with the tricks he’s learned from making hundreds over his many years turning.
We enjoyed some holiday treats prior to our show and tell where we shared the first thing we turned. Some of us started turning months ago, others brought decades old pieces. It was fun to hear how we all started out. Ken Vasko also demonstrated how he makes several different Christmas ornaments and decorations.
We had a regular meeting at the Rivet with a live sharpening demonstration planned. Unfortunately Larry suffered an accident prior to the meeting so we watched a sharpening video instead.
Paul Demmert showed how 8 different finishes look on bowls made from the same wood and ranked and rated them on various attributes. His notes are below the meeting video.
The genesis of this presentation was a presentation the club had several years ago with Jim Finley talking about finishes. The idea that took root in my mind was to show a variety of finishes on bowls that were all the same kind of wood. This would allow a comparison among the different finishes.
About 1 year ago I got access to a large log of American Holly and that was an opportunity to build this presentation on the different finishes. American Holly, Ilex opaca, is a species of holly, native to the eastern and south-central United States, from coastal Massachusetts south to central Florida, and west to southeastern Missouri and eastern Texas. It is the state tree of Delaware. Ilex opaca is a medium-sized broadleaved evergreen tree growing on average to 10–20 m (33–66 ft) wide canopy, and up to 30 m (98 ft) tall. Typically, its trunk diameter reaches 50 cm (20 in), sometimes up to 120 cm (47 in). The bark is light gray, roughened by small warty lumps. The wood is very pale, tough, close-grained, takes a good polish, and is used for whip-handles, engraving blocks and also cabinet work. (specialty items such as fancy cabinet inlays, small pieces of furniture, brush backs, handles, novelties, wood engravings, scroll work, woodcuts and carvings, and measuring scales and rules for scientific instruments). Ideal lumber has a very uniform, pale white color with virtually no visible grain pattern. Janka Hardness: 1,020 lbf (red oak 1290, black walnut 1010, cherry 950)
Because Holly has such a subdued grain pattern, it takes coloring dyes very well. Because of this, Holly can be dyed black and used as a substitute for ebony–for piano keys, violin pegs, and fingerboards. Knots are common, which can reduce the usable area of the wood.
Holly is usually cut during the winter and kiln dried shortly thereafter to preserve the white color of the wood. Holly can develop a bluish/gray fungal stain if not dried rapidly after cutting and this will be evident on the bowls I have for this presentation, because I didn’t get the bowls turned until over 6 months after it had been cut down in the late summer to early fall.
I have turned holly once before and that was a tree that had been cut down at my Father-in-Laws house and my wife grabbed a couple of sections of that tree after it had been hauled off to the dump. I turned that holly green, right after Leslie got it home so the resultant bowls were pure white, with no visible grain, almost like porcelain. Again this holly was turned within a month of being cut down.
This wood came from a landscape company in Altoona. In the fall of 2021 I went to pick up the wood. It was a single log, 8 ft long, 12-14 in diameter. The worker helped me by cutting the log into sections that were 16-18 in long, weighing about as much as a single person could carry. I stored the sections in my basement and painted Anchor Seal on the ends of the sections to seal the end grain.
Later I cut the sections in half with my chainsaw, right down the pith, giving me 2 bowl blanks per section.
I turned all of the bowls from March 6 to April 9 2022. All of the bowls were turned green, with the foot of the bowls pointing to the bark part of the blank, the inside of the bowls oriented towards the pith or the center of the tree. These bowls were only turned once, air dried for about 5 months (from April to August), and hand-sanded. Note that my bowls are functional, rather than artistic—wall thickness is between 3/16 to 3/8 inch. There was some movement in the bowls during drying, but some bowls help their shape pretty well. None of the bowls were remounted for a second turning. I started finishing the bowls in late August and applied last coat in early October.
Finishes Used
#1 Shellac (1# cut) dewaxed super blonde flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol
#2 Total Boat Varnish Clear Gloss
#3 Minwax Polycrylic Clear Satin
#4 Minwax Spar Urethane Clear Gloss
#5 Behlen Mohawk Salad Bowl Finish Clear
#6 Watco Danish Oil
#7 Deft Brushing Lacquer
#8 Waterlox Original Tung Oil
Procedure
220 grit First coat
320 grit Second coat
400 grit Third coat
600 grit Fourth coat
Total coats of finish: 6 or more
Buffed with white pad = 0000 steel wool to knock off dust nibs
Results
Various differences between the finishes include how does it flow (drips, brush marks, drying time), the general appearance of the finish, the cost, and cleanup.
Others: Total Boat Varnish and Minwax Polycrylic tended to be thick and left drips (better when thinned with water)
Deft Brushing Lacquer has levelling agents that almost eliminate brush marks.
Shellac, Total Boat Varnish, and Deft Lacquer dry very fast.
Watco Danish Oil very slow drying and stays tacky
General Appearance of the Finish
In this demonstration, I did not try to sand and buff out the bowls to make them perfect. Some of them still have brush marks and other defects in the finish that I need to address. I wanted to concentrate on the impression the finish makes on the viewer. This is very subjective. Also remember that results are dependent on the wood species—particularly if you are looking to see how much the tone of the wood has darkened after finish has been applied. This would not be a consideration if the bowls were turned from walnut, cherry, hickory, or other darker woods.
From my perspective #4, #3, #7 and #2 take on the “best” appearance, because these bowls still retain a lighter tone that is more consistent with the lighter color of Holly.
Bowls #6 and #8 come in at the end of the pack for the same reason—they darken the tone of the wood too much. Even though, #8 has a nice looking finish overall.
Cost
Most of the cost figures used in my analysis come from the prices I paid, either through Amazon or at local stores like Ace Hardware, Lowes, and Home Depot. If you took the time to shop around, you probably could beat the prices I paid.
#1 Minwax Spar Urethane Clear Gloss ($18.86/qt)
#2 Shellac (1# cut) dewaxed super blonde flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol (Flakes $2.20/oz, DNA $4.00/8 oz,= $24.80/qt Zinsser $26.53/qt)
Our first meeting after the summer break was a nice relaxed time to catch up on what everyone had been doing and making over the summer with a big show and tell and Q&A time. Held at the normal place, at the normal time – The RIvet at 7pm on the first Wednesday of the month.
This meeting was a Saturday Shop Tour, June 4th, where we went to five member shops to see how each were set up and what goodies they used to make their creations. It was a great time to hang out and learn from each other.
Our hybrid meeting held at the Rivet included a demonstration titled “From Log To Bowl’ by Stephen Tuttle. We learned how Stephen makes decisions on everything from chainsaw safety to mounting the lumber, to rounding a bowl blank, to basic sharpening. Great tips, reminders and examples for everyone.
The demonstration for this meeting was be provided by Ken Vasko. It was a really good follow-up to the presentation at the December meeting about Easy Wood Tools.
Ken covered:
Advantages and disadvantages of carbide tools
Pen turning
Short demo of spindle turning and bowl turning with carbide tools
Provided “hands-on” experience with three different tools for anyone interested